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When compiling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, nestled near the top among these culinary titans is a modest salonu located in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has made the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m completely surprised,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest place earning such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that price.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary achievement.