Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Grape-Treading Fruit in Urban Spaces

Each 20 minutes or so, an ageing diesel railway carriage arrives at a spray-painted station. Close by, a police siren pierces the almost continuous road noise. Commuters hurry past collapsing, ivy-draped fencing panels as storm clouds form.

It is perhaps the least likely spot you anticipate to find a well-established grape-growing plot. However one local grower has cultivated 40 mature vines heavy with round mauve grapes on a sprawling garden plot sandwiched between a line of historic homes and a commuter railway just north of the city downtown.

"I've noticed individuals hiding illegal substances or other items in those bushes," states the grower. "Yet you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your grapevines."

Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a documentary cameraman who also has a fermented beverage company, is among several local vintner. He's pulled together a loose collective of growers who produce wine from several discreet city grape gardens nestled in private yards and community plots across Bristol. The project is sufficiently underground to possess an formal title so far, but the group's messaging chat is called Vineyard Dreams.

City Vineyards Around the World

To date, Bayliss-Smith's plot is the only one listed in the Urban Vineyards Association's upcoming global directory, which features better-known urban wineries such as the 1,800 plants on the hillsides of Paris's historic artistic district neighbourhood and more than three thousand vines overlooking and within Turin. Based in Italy charitable organization is at the vanguard of a initiative re-establishing urban grape cultivation in historic wine-producing nations, but has identified them all over the world, including urban centers in Japan, South Asia and Central Asia.

"Grape gardens assist urban areas remain greener and ecologically varied. These spaces preserve land from construction by creating long-term, productive agricultural units inside cities," says the organization's leader.

Similar to other vintages, those created in urban areas are a product of the earth the plants thrive in, the vagaries of the weather and the individuals who care for the fruit. "Each vintage embodies the charm, community, landscape and history of a urban center," notes the spokesperson.

Unknown Polish Grapes

Back in the city, Bayliss-Smith is in a race against time to harvest the grapevines he grew from a plant abandoned in his garden by a Eastern European household. Should the precipitation comes, then the birds may seize their chance to attack once more. "This is the mystery Polish variety," he says, as he removes bruised and rotten berries from the shimmering bunches. "We don't really know their exact classification, but they're definitely hardy. In contrast to noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, white wine grapes and additional renowned European varieties – you need not spray them with chemicals ... this is possibly a unique cultivar that was developed by the Eastern Bloc."

Group Activities Across the City

Additional participants of the collective are additionally making the most of bright periods between bursts of autumn rain. On the terrace overlooking the city's glistening harbour, where historic trading ships once bobbed with barrels of wine from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is harvesting her rondo grapes from about 50 plants. "I love the smell of the grapevines. The scent is so evocative," she remarks, pausing with a container of fruit slung over her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of Provence when you open the car windows on holiday."

The humanitarian worker, fifty-two, who has spent over two decades working for charitable groups in conflict zones, inadvertently inherited the grape garden when she returned to the UK from East Africa with her household in 2018. She experienced an overwhelming duty to look after the vines in the garden of their new home. "This vineyard has previously survived multiple proprietors," she says. "I really like the concept of environmental care – of handing this down to someone else so they can keep cultivating from this land."

Terraced Gardens and Natural Winemaking

A short walk away, the final two members of the group are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has established over one hundred fifty plants perched on terraces in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the muddy local waterway. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she says, gesturing towards the interwoven grape garden. "They can't believe they can see rows of vines in a city street."

Today, Scofield, sixty, is harvesting clusters of dusty purple dark berries from rows of plants arranged along the hillside with the help of her daughter, her family member. The conservationist, a documentary producer who has worked on streaming service's Great National Parks series and BBC Two's Gardeners' World, was inspired to plant grapes after seeing her neighbor's grapevines. She's discovered that amateurs can produce interesting, enjoyable traditional vintage, which can sell for more than seven pounds a serving in the growing number of establishments specialising in minimal-intervention vintages. "It's just deeply rewarding that you can actually make quality, natural wine," she says. "It is quite fashionable, but really it's resurrecting an old way of producing vintage."

"During foot-stomping the fruit, all the natural microorganisms come off the surfaces into the liquid," explains the winemaker, partially submerged in a bucket of tiny stems, pips and crimson juice. "That's how wines were historically produced, but commercial producers introduce preservatives to kill the natural cultures and then incorporate a commercially produced yeast."

Difficult Environments and Inventive Approaches

A few doors down sprightly retiree another cultivator, who inspired his neighbor to plant her vines, has assembled his friends to harvest Chardonnay grapes from the 100 vines he has laid out neatly across two terraces. The former teacher, a Lancashire-born PE teacher who worked at the local university cultivated an interest in viticulture on annual sporting trips to France. But it is a difficult task to cultivate this particular variety in the dampness of the valley, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to produce Burgundian wines here, which is somewhat ambitious," says Reeve with a smile. "This variety is late to ripen and particularly vulnerable to mildew."

"I wanted to make European-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers"

The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the sole challenge faced by grape cultivators. The gardener has been compelled to install a barrier on

Lynn Krueger
Lynn Krueger

Elara is a digital artist and designer passionate about blending traditional techniques with modern technology to create stunning visual experiences.